Samphire

Samphire occupies 11 Don Street, the address that made its name as Ormer under Shaun Rankin and took the town's only Michelin star with it. When Rankin left in 2018 the restaurant was renamed and head chef Lee Smith stayed on, and what it does now is less about tasting-menu theatre than about cooking driven by the seasons: a menu that moves from snacks and lighter dishes up to more generous plates meant for the middle of the table, guided by what Jersey's land and sea are actually giving that week. The building carries the whole evening - all-day dining in the main room, a private dining room, an alfresco terrace and two bars across the floors above, including the roof terrace that is one of St Helier's better places to start a night. It stays open year-round, which matters on an island where several of the best coastal kitchens shut for winter.

Book ahead, particularly for weekend dinner. A two- or three-course set menu runs at lunch Tuesday to Saturday and at dinner Tuesday to Thursday.

Mid-to-high-end.

Open year-round; check current days before you go.

Central St Helier.

Step-free entry; upper floors and roof terrace via lift.